The prize was awarded by an independent international jury of nine experts who chose the best among the winners of the 9 single-origins that make up the recipe of the unique illy blend: Brazil, Costa Rica, El Salvador, Ethiopia, Guatemala, Honduras, India, Nicaragua and Rwanda.

The SMS Cluster ECOM of Nicaragua won the Coffee Lovers’ Choice award, voted for by consumers around the world who in the weeks leading up to the event blindly tasted the same samples in illy coffees.

“For the second year in a row, a Brazilian company that adopts regenerative practices has given us the best coffee in the world. In the Fazenda Serra do Boné, the health of the soil, biodiversity, and water sources are preserved thanks to the use of organic fertilizers, biological control and the reuse of processing by-products,” said Andrea Illy, chairman of illycaffè. “We are once again noticing important signs that confirm how regenerative agriculture is the right path towards a more resilient production capable of guaranteeing productivity and superior quality, of which coffee is the forerunner with the highest growth rates.”

The panel of judges who selected the Best of the Best included Massimo Bottura, chef patron of Osteria Francescana and founder of Food for Soul; Viki Geunes, chef-owner of three-Michelin-starred Zilte in Antwerp; Felipe Rodriguez, head chef at São Paulo’s Rosewood Complex; Vanúsia Nogueira, executive director of the International Coffee Organization (ICO); Q Grader professional tasters Felipe Isaza and Dessalegn Oljirra Gemeda; journalists Vanessa Zocchetti (Madame Figaro), Sebastian Späth (Falstaff), and Josh Condon (Robb Report).

The jury described Fazenda Serra do Boné’s award-winning coffee as creamy, sweet, and full-bodied, with an elegant balance of fresh fruit aromas, caramel undertones, subtle hints of brown sugar, and a persistent chocolate finish with floral notes of jasmine – a beautifully complex coffee that perfectly embodies its Brazilian origin.

This year’s event attracted a diverse group of public figures, including Francis Ford Coppola, Marina Abramović, Pat Cleveland, Alex Riviere, Chiara Maci, Candela Pelizza, Tamu McPherson, Sveva Alviti, Christoph Leitner, Simon e Marina Ksandr, Nick Lowry, Maddy Devita, Justine Martilotti, and Brittany Leigh Ball. The celebration of coffee excellence took place at a gala dinner at Peak in Hudson Yards, hosted by Spanish TV journalist Olivia Frejus Lloyd.

Beyond awards, the Ernesto Illy International Coffee Award fosters global discussions on coffee sustainability. The day began at the United Nations headquarters in New York where representatives from across the coffee supply chain gathered for a roundtable discussion titled “Global Coffee Alliance: Mobilizing a Public-Private Fund to Fight Climate Change.” The panel, moderated by Clare Reichenbach, CEO of the James Beard Foundation, featured chairman Andrea Illy, Italian Ambassador to the UN, Maurizio Massari; executive director of the ICO, Vanúsia Nogueira; chef and UNEP Goodwill Ambassador, Massimo Bottura; UNIDO project manager, Andrea De Marco; senior director of sustainable coffee at Conservation International, Raina Lang; and UNEP director for the New York office, Jamil Ahmad; who explored initiatives to advance sustainable coffee production in the face of climate challenges.

The panel emphasised the urgent need to transition coffee cultivation to a regenerative model to enhance resilience, improve farmer livelihoods, and reduce environmental impact. A major focus was on establishing a USD $10 billion public-private fund over the next decade, which will target smallholder coffee farmers in tropical regions heavily impacted by climate change.

“Since Expo 2015, we have worked tirelessly to build a framework to protect coffee for generations to come,” said Andrea Illy. “Regenerative agriculture has shown it can produce high yields and quality while restoring natural resources. We must act quickly to scale these solutions globally through an international fund. It is essential we implement regenerative solutions now, as we see they work and deliver positive outcomes.”

Throughout the discussion, panelists underscored the importance of uniting stakeholders from governments, international organisations, and the private sector to bring impactful, lasting change to coffee-growing communities. Reichenbach highlighted that consumer awareness and participation are key drivers in the industry’s sustainability journey.

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Producers from nine countries – Brazil, Costa Rica, El Salvador, Ethiopia, Guatemala, Honduras, India, Nicaragua, and Rwanda – have earned spots in the final, with three producers representing each country. The international jury will gather in New York on 12 November to taste and evaluate the coffees, which were selected by illycaffè’s quality laboratories based on rigorous quality and sustainability criteria throughout the 2023/2024 harvest.

The Ernesto Illy International Coffee Award 2024 jury includes Massimo Bottura, chef patron of Osteria Francescana and Casa Maria Luigia and founder of Food for Soul, a non-profit organization combatting food waste and social isolation. In recognition of his humanitarian and environmental efforts, Bottura was appointed goodwill ambassador for the United Nations Environment Programme in 2020 and most recently as SDG Advocate. In 2020 Osteria Francescana was awarded the prestigious Michelin Green Star for sustainability; Viki Geunes, chef and owner of restaurant Zilte in Antwerp, holder of three Michelin stars, known for his creative and visually stunning dishes; Felipe Rodrigues, head chef of the Rosewood Complex in São Paulo and one of South America’s leading chefs, with experience working under top European and Peruvian chefs.

Three professional tasters, Vanúsia Nogueira, executive director of the International Coffee Organization (ICO) and daughter of coffee producer, with extensive experience in quality coffee markets; Felipe Isaza, Arabica Q Grader and member of the Board of Directors of the Coffee Quality Institute, who has served as an international juror at numerous tastings; Dessalegn Oljirra Gemeda, Ethiopian coffee consultant and Q Grader, with a background working for the Ethiopian Coffee & Tea Authority, Ethiopian Coffee Exchange, and Oxfam.

And three expert journalists: Vanessa Zocchetti, editor-in-chief of the lifestyle section of Madame Figaro, who writes on gastronomy and design, Sebastian Späth, editor-in-chief of Germany´s leading food and lifestyle magazine Falstaff, with a great expertise in art, cuisine, fashion, and design, and Josh Condon, editor-in-chief of Robb Report, a leading luxury magazine.

This multidisciplinary jury combines culinary, technical and journalistic expertise to assess the complex nuances of the world’s finest coffees and choose the ‘Best of the Best.’

In addition, consumers will have the chance to participate by tasting the 9 finalist coffees and voting for their favourite in a series of blind tastings held at illy flagship stores worldwide. The coffee with the most votes will receive the ‘Coffee Lovers’ Choice’ award.

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Throughout the year, illycaffè’s quality laboratories analysed samples from the 2023/2024 harvest, selecting the best batches and producers based on both qualitative and sustainability criteria.

The finalists for this edition come from Brazil, Costa Rica, El Salvador, Ethiopia, Guatemala, Honduras, India, Nicaragua, and Rwanda.

“Sustainable quality is the result of a process that begins in the coffee plantations and requires constant innovation, research, and training. It means producing high-quality coffee with respect for the environment, biodiversity, human rights, and social well-being. The Ernesto Illy International Coffee Award has become an annual appointment with our best producers worldwide, with whom we have worked hand in hand for decades to ensure a prosperous future for people and the planet,” commented Andrea Illy, chairman of illycaffè.

The 27 finalists for the Ernesto Illy International Award 2024, listed alphabetically by country, are:

Brazil:

• Fazenda São João – Décio Bruxel e Outros
• Fazenda Serra do Boné – Matheus Lopes Sanglard
• Fazenda Vila Oscarlina – Flávio da Costa Figueredo

Costa Rica

• Coopelibertad R.L.
• CoopeSabalito R.L.
• Finca San Carlos de Marespi S.A.

El Salvador

• Finca Agua Caliente – J.J. Borja Nathan S.A.
• Finca Bolívar – Matorral de S.A. de C.V.
• Finca San Rafael – Comercial Larin S.A. DE C.V.

Ethiopia

• Darimo Washing Station Plc – Asma International Business Pvt Ltd
• Gera Tracon Washing Station Plc – Tracon Trading P.L.C.
• Jemila Amdela Washing Station Plc – Legesse Sherefa Pvt Ltd Co.

Guatemala

• Finca Danilandia – Luis Arimany Monzón
• Finca Santa Leonarda – Plantaciones Agropecuarias S.A.
• Pequeños Productores Santa Cruz Naranjo

Honduras

• Finca Diego Paz – Diego Paz Paz
• Finca Don Miguel – Miguel Angel Pérez Guevara
• Finca El Carmen – Jorge Aníbal Peña Maldonado

India

• Coovercolly Estate – Tata Consumer Products Ltd.
• Kajjehally Estate – S. Vasudevan
• Margolly Estate – Tata Consumer Products Ltd.

Nicaragua

• Finca Santa Ana – Aida Lila Zeledón Palacios
• Grupo productores – Olam Nicaragua
• SMS Cluster ECOM Nicaragua

Rwanda

• Karenge Coffee Washing Station
• Kibirizi Coffee Washing Station
• Rwinyoni Coffee Washing Station

The ranking of each of the nine finalist countries will be announced on 12 November at the United Nations in New York during an event where coffee producers will learn who has won the Ernesto Illy International Coffee Award 2024.

The previous edition of the Ernesto Illy International Coffee Award was won for the first time by Brazil, with the São Mateus Agropecuaria farm. This achievement is particularly significant as the coffee was produced using regenerative agricultural practices, which benefit the environment and health while producing exceptionally high-quality coffee.

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The award, named after the visionary leader of illycaffè and the son of the company’s founder, celebrates the work that the Trieste, Italy-based company has been doing every day for the last 30 years, side-by-side with coffee farmers, to offer the best possible sustainable coffee. The award was presented to the winner by illycaffè chairman Andrea Illy during an event held at the New York Public Library in New York.

EIICA celebrates the finest Arabica coffees sourced from all over the world. This event aims to recognize growers for the quality coffee they tirelessly work to produce. The award was assigned by an independent panel of nine experts who examined the best batches from the 2022-2023 harvest through a blind tasting of nine coffees from the nine finalist countries: Brazil, Costa Rica, El Salvador, Ethiopia, Guatemala, Honduras, India, Nicaragua, and Rwanda. Prior to being evaluated by the panel, each batch of coffee was analysed by illycaffè’s quality control labs and rated in terms of richness and aromatic complexity, the elegance and balance of its flavour and intensity of its aroma.

Guatemala’s Finca Danilandia di Luis Arimany Mondonico won the Coffee Lovers’ Choice Award, assigned by a panel of consumers who, in the weeks prior to the event, carried out blind taste tests of the coffee samples in illy cafés in Trieste, Milan, Paris, London, Sao Paolo and New York and ranked their preferences.

“The absolute victory of the Brazilian coffee coming from regenerative agriculture – chosen blindly among the nine best coffees in the world – fills me with joy. Indeed, the history of the Ernesto Illy Award began in Brazil in 1991 and this confirms that the rewards received, by illycaffè for having transformed Brazil from a leader in quantity to a leader in quality are well-deserved,” said Andrea Illy. “After more than 25 years of neverending and tireless work by our team of agronomists and the University of Coffee, the leap has finally happened thanks to regenerative agriculture, which we decided to develop in 2018 for the benefits it brings to the environment and everyone’s health.”

The panel that voted for the Best of the Best award included Guatemala’s professional taster Silvia Escobar; the President of Federação dos Cafeicultores do Cerrado, Brasilian Glaucio De Castro; the director of the CoffeeLab quality laboratory, Indian Sunalini Narayan Menon; chef Ricard Camarena, who has been awarded two Michelin stars and a green star for his dedication to sustainability at his Ricard Camarena Restaurant in Valencia; American chefs Carrie and Rupert Blease, who manage the Michelin-starred Lord Stanley restaurant in San Francisco; Andrea Aprea, a Michelin-starred chef with a restaurant bearing his name in Milan; French writer and journalist Adelaide de Clermont-Tonnere, editor-in-chief of Point de Vue magazine; Inga Griese, founder and editor-in-chief of ICON, the style supplement of the German newspaper Welt Am Sonntag; Angelina Villa Clarke, a journalist contributing to prestigious English-language publications including Forbes.

Commenting on the winning coffee, the jury said, “This year’s Ernesto Illy International Coffee Award winner is a rounded, wholesome, and fully bodied cup, with rich yet mellow flavors of a balance of chocolate, caramel, brown sugar, and toasted almonds on a bed of refined brightness, with a lingering finish of mild, gentle, yet harmonious sweetness. It truly represents the finest taste characteristics of its origin.”

Martha Stewart, Matilda De Angelis, Pat Cleveland, Coco Rocha, Candela Pelizza, Tamu Mc Pherson, Carlo Sestini, Simon and Marina Ksandr, Nick Lowry, Tesa Pesic are some of the celebrities who attended the gala event at the New York Public Library, hosted by chef and TV star Marcus Samuelsson, to celebrate the best coffee producers who work behind the unique illy blend.

The Ernesto Illy International Coffee Award is also an unmissable networking opportunity for all those involved in the coffee industry, from producers to exporters, from traders to institutional representatives. In the morning they all met at the United Nations Headquarters to attend a panel discussion on protecting the future of coffee. Alongside illycaffè chairman Andrea Illy, speakers included Vanusia Nogueira, executive director, International Coffee Organization; Jeffrey Sachs, professor of economy at Columbia University and co-chair at the Regenerative Society Foundation; Oscar Schaps, president of the Latin American division of Stone X Financial Inc; and Glaucio de Castro, president of the Federação dos Cafeicultores do Cerrado Mineiro. (For a full recap of the event at the UN, see the Editor’s Blog: “The time is now” to invest in regenerative agriculture (teaandcoffee.net).

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Broadly, the upward trend has the support of the fundamentals, with the global coffee market in deficit in coffee year 2021/22 and this situation expected to be repeated in coffee year 2022/23 (see Production and Consumption). The impetus behind the rally from the last days of March 2023 to the beginning of the third week of April 2023 can be attributed to the reinforcement of the support of the fundamentals from several market-driving events and announcements (see Exports by Regions – All Forms of Coffee). However, the downturn of the I-CIP, seen since the beginning of the third week of April 2023, appears mainly due to the strengthening US dollar. From 23 March to 28 April 2023, the Brazilian real (R$) moved from a low of R$5.30 on 23 March to a peak of R$4.91 on 14 April, before weakening again to an average of R$5.03 between 15 and 28 April against the US dollar.

Average prices for all group indicators increased in April 2023, with the Robustas averaging an 8.7% gain at 115.70 US cents/lb. Colombian Milds and Other Milds increased by 4.3% and 3.2%, to 234.85 and 229.56 US cents/lb, respectively, in April 2023. Brazilian Naturals lead the way amongst Arabicas, climbing 4.4% and reaching an average of 195.26 US cents/lb. The International Coffee Exchange’s (ICE) New York market expanded 6.3%, whilst the London Futures market grew 9.1% to 187.30 and 105.43 US cents/lb, respectively.

Colombian Milds-Other Milds differential presented resilient growth, rising 84.3% to 5.30 US cents/lb. Colombian Milds-Brazilian Naturals differential also gained 3.6% from March to April 2023, averaging 39.60 US cents/lb in April, whilst Colombian Milds-Robustas grew 0.3% to 119.15 US cents/lb for the same period. Conversely, Other Milds-Brazilian Naturals differential lost 2.9%, averaging 34.30 US cents/lb, whilst Other Milds-Robustas also shrank by 1.7% to 113.86 US cents/lb. With the most moderate loss, Brazilian Naturals-Robustas dropped 1.2% to 79.56 US cents/lb.

Arbitrage, as measured in between the London and New York Futures markets, expanded by 2.9% to 81.88 US cents/lb in April 2023.

Intra-day volatility of the I-CIP is stabilising and reached 8.7% with a marginal increase of 0.6 percentage points between March and April 2023. Robustas presented the strongest volatility increase, averaging 7.7% for the month of April 2023, a 1.4 percentage point expansion. Echoing this increased volatility were the New York Futures and London markets, where 0.1 and 0.8 percentage points were gained, averaging 11.1% and 7.9%, respectively, for April 2023. Whilst volatility of the Other Milds grew 0.4 percentage points to 9.2%, the Colombian Milds also increased by 0.3 percentage points to 9.0%. Lastly, Brazilian Naturals saw an 0.5 percentage point increase in volatility from March to April 2023.

The New York certified stocks decreased 7.9% from the previous month, closing in at 0.74 million 60-kg bags, whilst certified stocks of Robusta coffee reached 1.31 million 60-kg bags, representing an increase of 3.1%.

Exports by Coffee Groups – Green Beans
Global green bean exports in March 2023 totalled 10.90 million bags, as compared with 12.06 million bags in the same month of the previous year, down 9.6%. The downturn was spread across all coffee groups. As a result, the cumulative total exports of green beans for coffee year 2022/23 is decreasing at an accelerated rate, down 6.1%, as compared with the 5.2% fall recorded for the first five months of the current coffee year. The cumulative total for 2022/23 to March is 56.26 million bags, as compared with 59.92 million bags over the same period a year ago.

Shipments of the Other Milds decreased by 17.1% in March 2023 to 2.11 million bags from 2.55 million bags in the same period last year. This is the sixth consecutive month of negative growth for green bean exports of Other Milds since the start of the new coffee year. As a result, the cumulative volume of exports fell by 18.2% in the first six months of coffee year 2022/23 to 8.86 million bags versus 10.83 million bags over the same period in 2021/22.

Green bean exports of Brazilian Naturals fell in March 2023, falling by 13.5% to 3.08 million bags. For the first six months of coffee year 2022/23, green bean exports of Brazilian Naturals amounted to 18.61 million bags, down 7.8% from 20.18 million bags over the same period a year ago. Changes to the fortunes of Brazilian Naturals are mainly changes in Brazil’s green bean exports, the biggest producer and exporter of Brazilian Naturals, which also fell in March 2023 (-14.8%) to 2.78 million bags from 3.27 million bags in March 2022.

Exports of Colombian Milds decreased by 17.4% to 0.96 million bags in March 2023 from 1.17 million bags in March 2022, driven primarily by Colombia, the main origin of this group of coffee, whose exports of green beans were down 19.2% in March 2023. This is the ninth consecutive month of negative growth for Colombian Milds and, as a result, the exports of this group of coffee for October 2022 to March 2023 were down 14.7%, at 5.63 million bags, as compared with 6.60 million bags in the first six months of coffee year 2021/22.

Green bean exports of Robustas amounted to 4.74 million bags in March 2023, as compared with 4.78 million bags in March 2022, down 0.8%. In the first six months of coffee year 2022/23, 23.17 million bags of Robustas were exported as compared with 22.31 million bags in the same period in 2021/22.

Exports by Regions – All Forms of Coffee
In March 2023, South America’s exports of all forms of coffee decreased by 17.3% to 4.13 million bags, driven by the three main origins of the region, Brazil, Colombia and Peru, which saw their combined exports fall by 17.9%. The two major origins of the region, Brazil and Colombia, saw their respective shipments of coffee decrease by 14.3% and 19.2% in March 2023, falling to 3.1 million and 0.92 million bags, ie, the fourth and ninth consecutive months of negative growth, respectively.

The off-season and smaller harvests in 2020/21 and 2021/22 have been put forward as explanations for Brazil’s falling exports by Cecafé, the Brazilian Coffee Exporters Council, while in Colombia both an adverse weather-driven fall in supply and a 10% decrease in production in March 2023, continue to explain the decreasing exports.

Peru is continuing to see its exports fall at a significantly faster rate, plunging by 76.5% in March 2023. Again, erratic weather played a part in this downturn, in addition to social unrest in the main producing areas (Cajamarca, Junín and San Martín) which saw their roads blocked. However, the main culprit behind the magnitude of the fall in exports is mechanical; 4.60 million bags of all forms of coffee were exported in coffee year 2021/22, the second largest in volume on record, just behind the 4.69 million bags exported in coffee year 2011/12, increasing by 44.8% as compared with coffee year 2020/21. Moreover, for the first three months of the calendar year (January to March 2022), exports increased by 245.8% at 1.00 million bags, the largest Q1 shipment on record, and 57.4% higher than the next biggest, 0.64 million bags, recorded in 2012. Given these record breaking numbers the Q1 data for 2023 are, inevitably, suffering in comparison.

Exports of all forms of coffee from Africa decreased by 5.0% to 1.12 million bags in March 2023 from 1.18 million bags in March 2022. For the first six months of the current coffee year, exports totalled 6.35 million bags as compared with 6.33 million bags in coffee year 2021/22, up 0.3%. Côte d’Ivoire and Kenya are the main drivers behind the fall in the region’s exports, with shipments of coffee decreasing by 41.4% to 0.12 million bags as compared with 0.21 million bags in March 2022, and by 17.7% to 58,340 bags from 70,849 bags in March 2022, respectively. However, Burundi, Rwanda and Uganda served as counterweights that tempered the severity of the region’s downturn, with their exports up 86.7%, 249.2% and 2.0%, respectively.

In March 2023, exports of all forms of coffee from Mexico and Central America were down 15.4% to 1.75 million bags as compared with 2.07 million in March 2022. This latest month of negative growth is the fifth in the first six months of the current coffee year, with the only instance of positive growth seen in February 2023. As a result, for the first six months of the current coffee year, exports are down at 11.8%, totalling 5.78 million bags as compared with 6.56 million bags from October 2021 to March 2022. Of the top six origins, five saw their exports fall in March 2023, with Guatemala suffering the heaviest decline (-44.9%), while Honduras was the only major origin with positive growth (2.0%). For Honduras, the increase seen in March is the third consecutive month of expansion, following 11 straight months of decreases between February and December 2022.

Exports of all forms of coffee from Asia and Oceania increased by 0.2% to 5.03 million bags in March 2023 and were up 2.5% to 24.05 million bags in the first six months of coffee year 2022/23. Indonesia is the main driver of the latest upturn, with exports increasing by 16.0% to 0.58 million bags from 0.50 million bags in March 2022, outweighing the 1.6% and 1.1% downturns of India and Vietnam, respectively.

Indonesia’s upturn in exports seemingly came in the face of evidence to the contrary; the ICO’s latest outlook for coffee year 2022/23 projected Indonesia’s production to be growing at a slower rate than its consumption, 1.1% versus 5.1%, thereby reducing the supply available for export. Moreover, earlier in the year, the Association of Indonesia Coffee Exporters and Industries projected a 20% fall in production due to excessive rain across the coffee growing regions, while severe rainfall was seen through much of the archipelago in the first four months of 2023. The double-digit expansion of exports in March is mainly explained by the strong on-off seasonality of Indonesia’s coffee exports, which is evident in both annual and monthly data (see Graph A). Thus, the 16.0% increase in March 2023 is more a reflection of March 2022 than a statement on the current status of Indonesia’s coffee industry or the world’s demand for its coffee.

Exports of Coffee by Forms
Total exports of soluble coffee decreased by 6.5% in March 2023 to 1.05 million bags from 1.13 million bags in March 2022. In the first six months of coffee year 2022/23, a total of 5.67 million bags of soluble coffee were exported, representing a decrease of 8.8% from the 6.22 million bags exported in the same period during the previous coffee year. Soluble coffee’s share in the total exports of all forms of coffee was 10.1% (measured on a moving 12-month average) in March 2023, the same as it was in March 2022. Brazil is the largest exporter of soluble coffee, shipping 0.32 million bags in March 2023.

Exports of roasted beans were up 5.9% in March 2023 to 66,393 bags, as compared with 62,689 bags in March 2022. The cumulative total for coffee year 2022/23 to March 2023 was 358,640 bags, as compared with 399,479 bags in same period a year ago.

Production and Consumption
The estimates and outlook of production and consumption for coffee years 2021/22 and 2022/23 remain the same. World coffee production decreased by 1.4% to 168.5 million bags in coffee year 2021/22, hampered by the off-biennial production and negative meteorological conditions in several key origins. However, it is expected to bounce back by 1.7% to 171.3 million bags in 2022/23. Increased global fertiliser costs and adverse weather conditions are expected to partially offset the positive impact of biennial production from Brazil, explaining the relatively low rate of growth in coffee year 2022/23. The impact of biennial production is anticipated to drive the outlook for Arabica, which is projected to increase by 4.6% to 98.6 million bags in coffee year 2022/23, following a 7.2% decrease in the previous coffee year.

Reflecting its cyclical output, Arabica’s share of the total coffee production is expected to increase to 57.5% from 55.9% in coffee year 2021/22. South America is and will remain the largest producer of coffee in the world, despite suffering from the largest drop in output for almost 20 years, which fell by 7.6% in coffee year 2021/22. The recovery in coffee year 2022/23, partly driven by biennial production, is expected to push the region’s output to 82.4 million bags, a rise of 6.2%.

World coffee consumption increased by 4.2% to 175.6 million bags in coffee year 2021/22, following a 0.6% rise the previous year. Release of the pent-up demand built up during the Covid-19 years and sharp global economic growth of 6.0% in 2021 explains the sharp bounce back in coffee consumption in coffee year 2021/22. Decelerating world economic growth rates for 2022 and 2023, coupled with the dramatic rise in the cost of living, will have an impact on the coffee consumption for coffee year 2022/23. It is expected to grow, but at a decelerating rate of 1.7% to 178.5 million bags. The global deceleration is expected to come from non-producing countries, with Europe’s coffee consumption predicted to suffer the largest decrease among all regions, with growth rates falling to 0.1% in coffee year 2022/23 from a 6.0% expansion in coffee year 2021/22.

As a result, the world coffee market is expected to run another year of deficit, a shortfall of 7.3 million bags.

The outlook is taken from the newest publication of the Statistics Section of the Secretariat of the International Coffee Organization (ICO), the Coffee Report and Outlook (CRO). The CRO offers an insight into the factors moving the global coffee industry in the most recent past and draws out the potential events that may drive the industry in the near future. The CRO can be downloaded from the ICO website: www.icocoffee.org. For further information, contact the Statistics Section at stats@ico.org.

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Global coffee production for 2019-2020 dipped 2.5 per cent to 168.84 million bags compared to the previous year, except for Africa where green coffee-producing countries posted an average modest growth of 0.5 per cent for the period, according to the International Coffee Organization (ICO).

Africa’s production of green coffee has been fluctuating in the last few years with new projections of a 0.3 percentage point decline from 19.33 million bags in 2020-21 to 19.27 million bags for the 2021-22 coffee year. The projections may be slightly above or below the actual output figures once the production figures across the continent are confirmed.

Previously, the ICO said production of both Arabica and Robusta in Africa increased by 7 per cent between 2017 and 2019, from 17,354 thousand 60-kg bags, an output that declined by 1 per cent between 2019 and 2020 from 18,686 thousand 60-kg bags to 18,514 thousand 60-kg bags.

On average, the decline in production between 2017 and 2020 among Africa’s coffee producers was 0.9 per cent, with the biggest individual drop for the 2019-20 period being notable in Burundi (-6.4 per cent), Cote d’Ivoire (-8 per cent), Kenya (-8.1 per cent) and Rwanda (-8.3 per cent) according to the May 2021 ICO statistics.

Favourable conditions for growth

Despite the slight dip in production for the 2019-20 period, a growing domestic coffee consumption rate, an increasing demand for Africa’s green coffee in key markets such as Europe, favourable weather conditions and elaborate coffee nursery programmes to replenish ageing farms, especially in Uganda and Ethiopia, could keep the continent’s green coffee output steady in the long term.

Demand for green coffee output in Africa is lately being driven by the surge in the continent’s consumption levels, currently estimated at 7 per cent of the total global intake. Coffee consumption has grown by 3.2 per cent since the 1990-1991 when 4.9 million bags were consumed to 11.67 million bags in the 2018-19. Nearly 70 per cent of this consumption is in Algeria, Ethiopia, South Africa, Morocco, and Egypt.

Elsewhere in the global market, consumption in 2019-20 period dropped by 0.9 per cent to 167.59 million bags, hence easing demand on green coffee supplies. The opposite is true of Africa for the same period where demand for green coffee was estimated at 12.02 million bags for the 2019-20 when domestic coffee consumption surpassed 11.67 million 60-kg bags with more than 70 per cent of it consumed in Ethiopia, Algeria, Morocco, South Africa, and Egypt.

Although the Covid-19 pandemic appeared to suppress consumption in markets such as Uganda due to prolonged lockdowns, Africa’s consumption is expected to grow by 2.4 percentage points to 11.7 million bags from 11.4 million bags in 2020-21 according to the ICO.

Coffee drying in Uganda. Image: Jada Coffee Uganda

Moreover, demand for green coffee within the African market is expected to grow even further, driven by the expanding urban population, especially in sub-Saharan Africa (SSA). The World Bank estimates SSA’s urban population to have grown from 209 million people in the year 2000 to 469 million people in 2020—a 41 per cent increase. This urban population growth is linked to the increase in coffee consumption in the region and the subsequent demand for more green coffee, hence fuelling output.

Furthermore, there is continued demand for Africa’s green coffee in leading coffee-consuming markets such as EU-28 that could trigger the desire to ramp up production of green Arabica and Robusta coffee to meet requirements of international buyers. For example, the European Coffee Federation says between 2016 and 2018, Africa’s top green coffee producers including Uganda, Ethiopia, Kenya, Tanzania, Cote d’Ivoire, Cameroon, and Burundi sold 328,545 tonnes to the EU-28 market with Ethiopia and Uganda being the top suppliers.

Mixed results among top producers

Green coffee production among Africa’s top producers paints a picture of mixed performance for the period between 2017 and 2020 when Ethiopia and Uganda reported a modest increase in output while Cote d’Ivoire, Kenya, Democratic Republic of Congo (DRC), Tanzania and Guinea reported a decline, particularly between the 2019 and 2020 harvesting period.

Ethiopia, Africa’s largest green coffee producer and consumer of processed coffee, has enjoyed steady growth in production for three years to 2021 driven largely by the presence of suitable growing conditions with projection indicating the country’s output could reach 7.62 million bags during the 2021-22 year, with up to 55 per cent of the production expected to be consumed domestically according to USA’s Department of Agriculture (USDA).

Between 2019 and 2020, Ethiopia’s production grew 0.4 per cent lower than the 1.2 per cent to 7.55 million bags earlier projected by ICO. This modest growth in output coincided with the enactment by the Ethiopian government of a new marketing and export policy that allows direct coffee exports by smallholders with minimum of two hectares of land and by commercial farms to“encourage vertical integration and improve coffee traceability,” according to USDA.

Growth in coffee production was also reported in Uganda for the 2019-20 period when the landlocked country reported a 2 per cent increase in output to 5.62 million bags according to ICO statistics, up from the previously projected 1 per cent surge to 4.75 million bags. The output was expected to reach 6 million bags during the 2020-21 coffee year supported largely by the maturity of new coffee plantings under a state-sponsored plan for farmers to take old trees out of production via stumping according to projections by USDA.

“We have seen coffee production increase from 4.2 million 60-kg bags in 2015-16 to 8.06 million bags in 2020-21 while coffee exports have increased from 3.6 million 60-kg bags in 2015-16 to 6.1 million 60kg bags in 2020-21,” said Emmanuel Iyamulemye, managing director, Uganda Coffee Development Authority.

He said that this is mainly attributed to the planting of new coffee trees. “Cumulatively, 1.167 billion coffee seedlings were generated and distributed between 2015-16 and 2020-21.”

In Côte d’Ivoire, one of West Africa’s top Robusta coffee producers, known to be of medium quality, the output declined by 8 per cent between 2019 and 2020 to 1.8 million bags defying predictions by ICO of a 4.1 per cent dip in production that could have totalled 2 million bags. The country had reported a 41.6 per cent increase in output to 2.09 million bags in 2018-19.

Guinea, one of Africa’s smallest coffee producers, posted the biggest decline in output by 15.9 per cent between 2019 and 2020 from 178,000 bags of green coffee to 150,000 bags. However, green coffee production statistics for Guinea have remained inconsistent with one report saying the only consistency is “the fact that production volumes have been low.”

Coffee pickers carrying dried coffee in Kenya. Image: Rainforest Alliance

Some of Africa’s bigger green coffee producers including Kenya, and the Democratic Republic of Congo (DRC) also reported a decline in output of 8.1 per cent and 4 per cent respectively between 2019 and 2020.

This decline in output for Cote d’Ivoire, Kenya, DRC, Tanzania, and Guinea seem to have partially been compensated by the positive growth in production by Rwanda, Cameroon and Uganda at 6.3 per cent, 4.4 per cent and 2 per cent, respectively.

A bright future

Africa’s green coffee production and uptake, similar to many coffee markets globally, was impacted by the Covid-19 pandemic that the ICO says caused “unprecedented joint supply and demand shock to the global coffee sector.”

The Covid-19 pandemic not only triggered a competitive coffee price regime in the global market but also constrained supplies, especially in 2020 and 2021, due to pandemic containment measures, including cessation of all forms of transportation. In addition, the pandemic ushered in a new normal where unprecedented lockdowns led to a general increase in home coffee consumption as nearly all hotels, restaurants and catering services remained closed, and a huge portion of the working class was restricted to working from home.

According to 2019-20 ICO chairman Iman Pambagyo, “the pandemic aggravated issues such as the coffee price volatility, thus generating instability and uncertainty.”

The future of Africa’s green coffee production and trade looks bright especially with the ongoing coffee farm programmes such as the current stumping in Uganda and Ethiopia as well as the emerging demand-trigger trends such as the expanding middle-class segment of the population in Africa and the entrenched café and coffee shop culture in consuming markets that rely on Africa for coffee supply such as the Middle East and Europe.

• Shem Oirere is a freelance business journalist based in Nairobi, Kenya. He has spent more than 25 years covering various sectors of Africa’s economy including the region’s agribusiness. He holds BA in International Relations and Diplomacy from the University of South Africa and earned a higher degree in journalism from the London School of Journalism and is also a member of the Association of Business Executives (ABE).

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Kenya is the third largest tea producer in the world and holds the leading spot in global tea exports followed by Uganda, Malawi, Rwanda, Tanzania, and Zimbabwe, which all contribute importantly to global trade. Continued investments aim to further develop this vital asset for their national economies by supplying even more teas to old and new customers.

It is worth noting, however, that tea is not native to Africa – commercial planting was introduced under colonial rule, with tea seeds from the United Kingdom’s Royal Botanical Gardens in Kew and Edinburgh and later from Ceylon (Sri Lanka) and India.The African tea-growing areas are mostly located in mountainous regions, with cool clean air and abundant rains. They stretch from the gentle hills of Cameroon in the West to the high plateaus and mountain slopes on both sides of the Great Rift Valley, that cuts steeply down through the East of the African continent.

Fresh leaf arrival in the factory, Rwanda

According to London Tea Auction records, the first successful tea planting was carried out in Malawi, near Blantyre in 1878; followed by planting in Uganda and Rhodesia – Zimbabwe today- in 1900.The first tea planting in Kenya took place in 1904 with more tea planting starting in 1920 in Tanzania and Mozambique. Tea had been introduced to the island of Mauritius in the Indian Ocean on an experimental basis as early as 1871 by a French settler, with commercial production initiated in 1891. Much later tea was introduced by Belgian settlers in Burundi in the 1930s, in the Democratic Republic of Congo (DRC) in the 1940s, and in Rwanda in the 1950s. In 1955, the Commonwealth Development Corporation started to grow tea in the coastal area of West Cameroon. Tea has been thriving all over with crops on a steady upward trend, generating prosperity through modern agri-technology and manufacturing methods that retain excellent quality for leaf and liquor.

The many political changes brought about after the end of World War II have shifted the remaining colonial rules. Between 1960 and 1961, all African countries had become independent nations, one by one. With some of the new borders cutting through ancestral territories, creating ethnic strife, civil war and undemocratic rulers generating political disorder, some severe disruptions have occurred in the period following independence, namely in the Democratic Republic of Congo (DRC), Uganda, Rwanda, and Mozambique and more new nations were created through further territorial separations after long conflicts.

After independence, additional countries launched commercial tea cultivation, namely Zambia and South Africa in 1964 and Ethiopia in the 1970s. Today, there are 13 African nations that cultivate tea commercially. This crop is considered vital for generating export revenue and employment, whilst also providing good cups for a growing domestic demand.

Africa’s place in the global tea market

According to 2020 data published by the London based International Tea Committee (ITC), Africa’s 13 tea-producing countries generate a total production of 795,600 metric tonnes (mt) of tea. With a growth rate of +36.4 per cent over the past 10 years, the total African tea production represents, however, only 12.7 per cent of the world production, which is dominated by the giants China and India, with respective shares of 47 per cent and 20 per cent of the world’s total tea output.

Bearing in mind that in China and India, the domestic consumers drink most of their teas themselves, while the African tea-producing countries manufacture their teas first as an export revenue crop. African tea production has therefore grown into a vital part of the global tea economy and represents the biggest share of the world’s tea exports with a volume of 713,300 mt in 2020, i.e., 39 per cent of the internationally traded teas, compared to a share of 34 per cent in 2011.

Christine Simon meeting Kenya High Comissioner in London HE Manoah Esipisu April 2022

It is important to underline the geographical location of the main East African tea areas—all are situated across and close to the equator, which allows for year-round plucking without any dormancy period, hence offering a continued supply of fresh teas all throughout the year. This highly attractive aspect has made African producers the number one supplier for several of the main black tea importing markets, namely Pakistan, Egypt and the United Kingdom. Kenyan teas have also started to gain a growing share of the Russian and United States markets.

African tea production by ranking

Kenya is the leading producer in Africa (and globally) with an output of 570,000 mt in 2020, up 50 per cent over the past 10 years. Uganda follows with an output of 66,400 mt in 2020, up 23 per cent since 2011. Malawi ranks third with an output of 45,200 mt, down by 4 per cent over the last 10 years due to adverse weather conditions. Rwanda is the fourth largest tea producer in Africa with a 2020 output of 33,000 mt, an increase of 37 per cent since 2011, and then Tanzania with a 2020 production volume of 28,500 mt, down 13 per cent since 2011. Zimbabwe is next with a 2020 production standing at 14,000 mt, down by 4 per cent since 2011, followed by Burundi, with a 2020 production of 11,200 mt, having grown by 60 per cent over the past 10 years. With a production below 7,000 mt in 2020, the six remaining tea-producing countries are Ethiopia, Mozambique, Cameroon, DRC, South Africa, and Mauritius.

Kenya and Rwanda black teas

To further increase tea production, new lands must be cleared for new plantations or old fields must be replanted with higher yielding new bushes or to densify intensely. In line with the various geographical settings and the availability of appropriate arable lands, certain countries have been able to significantly expand the areas planted with tea, whilst others could not. ITC data shows that tea acreage has expanded significantly over the past 10 years in Kenya, with 269,400 hectares (ha) under tea (up 43 per cent); in Uganda, with 46,500 ha (up 62 per cent); and in Rwanda, with 25,000 ha, (up 67 per cent). Reviewing the average yield rates of made tea per hectare gives additional means to appreciate the dynamics of the various national tea economies in Africa. Per ITC data for 2018-20, yield rates range from +/-2,500kg/ha in Malawi, Ethiopia, Zimbabwe, and Mauritius, to +/-2,000 kg/ha in Kenya and Mozambique, to +/-1,500kg/ha in Cameroon, Uganda, Rwanda, Tanzania. The lowest yield rates are in Burundi, South Africa and DRC.

Akina new Kenya signature blends

It has also been reported that foreign investment in the tea sector is on the rise, namely that the Japanese government is carrying out pilot production of green tea by providing instructions for planting that will allow the use of machinery for harvesting and for processing the leaf into quality green teas. There is also more investment from Sri Lanka, whilst China continues to invest in infrastructure, namely roads and port equipment, which are vital for transporting containers for export goods.

The Profile of African teas

The vast majority of the African tea production is black CTC tea, harvested from Camellia sinensis var assamica tea plants, brought originally from Assam, Ceylon (Sri Lanka) and the British Royal Botanical Gardens. More than 30 new cultivars have been developed over the past few decades by the East and Central African Tea Research Foundations (TRF) in Kericho, Kenya and in Mulanje, Malawi, which has widely improved yield, pest and drought resistance and, of course, cup quality. Dr Albert Chayanga, former head of the Central African Tea Research recalls that “the set of cultivars developed here in Malawi is famous for their bright red liquor and hence sought after for blending. We have shared some with our neighbours, Rwanda in particular, where these bushes prosper well too.”

With the remit of sharing information, networking and enhancing the upgrading of the identity and profile of the many African teas, the East African Tea Trade Association (EATTA) based in Mombasa, Kenya, launched the first African Tea Convention in Mombasa, Kenya in 2011. The second was held in 2013 in Kigali, Rwanda, followed by the third in 2017 in Nairobi, Kenya and the fourth in Kampala, Uganda, in May 2019. After the disruption of the Covid pandemic, the 5th African Tea Convention will take place in Bujumbura, Burundi, 20-22 July this year.

CTC vs orthodox & specialty teas

With tea becoming the world’s number one brewed cup more than ten years ago, the trend towards more premiumisation, with more single origin and specialty leaf has now spread to Africa. For more than 20 years such premium cup strategies have been successfully applied by companies in Western ownership and hence with direct access to demanding Western consumer markets, the acknowledged pioneers being Sorwathe Ltd, established in 1975, in Kinihira, Rwanda and Satemwa Tea Estate, founded in 1923 in Thiolo, Malawi. Their outstanding specialty estate teas have been well promoted for many years now, have attracted attention and fetched rewards and awards.

Kenya orthodox teas from KTDA gardens FBOPF Ceylon style

The reputation built up by these East African branded premium cups from Malawi and Rwanda is now paving the way for other tea estates and other tea-market operators to focus on added value and target the niche market with high profile quality cups. For example, newcomer Empire Kenya EPZ, based in Mombasa, Kenya, has started to promote premium black tea blends and orthodox leaf teas under the brand Akina. Marketed with the motto ‘Buy Kenyan Tea’, Christine Simon runs the website and digital marketing. Enthusiastic about the development of this premium range, Simon recently returned from the UK where she presented the company and its premium tea range to the Kenyan High Commissioner in London. She indicated that Empire Kenya sources black and purple teas from several KTDA tea estates that have a well-established orthodox production line, whilst they must go through the Mombasa auction to buy premium CTC. According to the media, the auction’s monopoly for CTC teas is currently being challenged by the trade that feel that this constraint is counterproductive for further development and expansion

With the world recovering from the Covid pandemic, tea is very much in the consumers’ focus as they want genuine, healthy and zero calorie beverages and wish to advance sustainability and ethical trade. Bearing in mind the global warming that affects lower producing regions, the tea fields in Africa’s high plateaus may well become pivotal to global demand, for both the mainstream and the premium segment.

• Barbara Dufrêne is the former Secretary General of the European Tea Committee and editor of La Nouvelle du Thé. She may be reached at: b-dufrêne@orange.fr.

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Send a Cow says, in the spirit of Ubuntu, an African word that means ‘I am, because you are’: we are all connected, and loneliness can be overcome.

Send a Cow is encouraging people to hold their own African Coffee Break, and the charity even has a free playlist, coffee quiz and tasting notes available to add to the occasion.

Claire, a coffee grower in Rwanda, joined a Send a Cow project. She said: “I chose to grow coffee because it is one of the good cash crops in this region. I get money from coffee and no longer struggle to pay for my health insurance… working with Send a Cow has made us popular and it’s very good when people pass by and see our produce, then they [want] to know how we do this, and ask for help and advice.”

The sustainable development charity are making sure that, despite the coronavirus outbreak, small-scale farmers get the support they need to end hunger and poverty – people participating in the African Coffee Break are encouraged to make a contribution towards the charity, to help Rwandan coffee farmers like Claire. £100 of donations can go towards helping 10 families with seeds, tools and training.

Rebecca Parford, head of Public Fundraising at Send a Cow, said: “When we launched the African Coffee Break we saw some brilliant events, and there’s nothing to stop people recreating the same vibrant events online, from the comfort of their own home. We’ve put together some tips to give people a great way to connect, wherever they’re based.”

Due to the Covid-19 pandemic, instead of face-to-face events, the charity behind Loneliness Awareness Week (Marmalade Trust) is also hosting a virtual campaign called ‘One Less Lonely Voice’ with the aim of empowering everyone to understand loneliness one conversation at a time, so people can help themselves and others to manage feelings of loneliness.

#LetsTalkLoneliness

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The company has launched select editions of Zoégas whole beans and roast and ground coffee in Sweden. This ‘Summer 2020’ range is a 100% Rainforest Alliance certified blend of arabica coffee beans from three origins – Brazil, Rwanda and Colombia. Now, through blockchain-recorded data, coffee lovers will be able to trace their coffee back to its origins.

This is the first time Nestlé has partnered with a trusted third party – The Rainforest Alliance – to independently provide reliable data beyond what is usually disclosed. The Rainforest Alliance provides its own certification information, guaranteeing the traceability of the Nestlé coffee. This information is then directly accessible to everyone with the IBM Food Trust blockchain platform.

By scanning the QR code on the Nestlé packaging, consumers are able to follow the coffee’s journey from the growing locations to the Zoégas factory in Helsingborg where the beans are roasted, grounded and packed. The data includes information about farmers, time of harvest, transaction certificate for the specific shipments, as well as roasting period.

Nestlé started using blockchain in 2017 when it joined the IBM Food Trust as a founding member. Over the past three years, Nestlé has scaled up and diversified the use of blockchain platforms to bring its transparency and sustainability efforts to life for consumers. It started giving consumers access to blockchain with IBM on products such as Mousline purée and Guigoz infant formula in France. Together with OpenSC, Nestlé is also piloting open blockchain to monitor and openly communicate data related to the sustainability of milk and palm oil.

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The 2019 Anniversary Blend is comprised of two washed coffees – one from Rwanda, the other from Colombia – that create an aromatic dark roast of floral and fruity flavors with chocolate notes. Both craft-roasted coffees are grown by remarkable women farmers. Through its Drink a Great Cup, Do a Good Thing program, Peet’s will donate up to $50,000 USD of the blend’s proceeds to an entrepreneurship program that empowers women coffee growers from Huila, Colombia. The program, led by Coocentral co-operative and Sustainable Harvest, will provide access to business training to one hundred women.

“Each spring we celebrate our anniversary with our beloved tradition of crafting a great coffee that gives back to a community at origin,” said Doug Welsh, vice president, coffee, Peet’s Coffee. “And with every cup of Anniversary Blend that you savor, you help support Women’s Entrepreneurship in Colombia. From business skills to income diversification, supporting the women of Coocentral co-operative means supporting the entire region. We can drink to that.”

The 2019 Anniversary Blend is available now in distinctive purple bags, and while supplies last. The blend can be purchased at participating Peet’s coffeebar locations  and at www.peets.com. To learn more, visit https://www.peets.com/anniversary-blend.

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“The Barista Collection reflects NuZee’s core company values of providing a fresh, delicious cup of coffee while ensuring that our supply chain is both socially and environmentally responsible,” said Masa Higashida, NuZee’s chief executive officer.

“The Barista Collection marks our entry into the premium, specialty grade coffee space,” said Travis Gorney, president and COO of NuZee.  “We are excited to provide a superior coffee experience at an affordable price.”

Available in three varieties and sold in boxes of five, the Barista Collection is available for purchase at https://coffeeblenders.com/coffee/pour-over-coffee/.:

Rwandan
Responsibly and sustainably sourced beans from family-owned farms in the northern province of Rwanda. The growing altitude of 1,500 meters plus soil rich with minerals delivers full bodied flavor. Cherries are floated prior to pulping and fermenting, then fully washed, soaked overnight in clean water, and dried in the sun on raised beds with plastic tarps to protect from seasonal rains.

Tasting notes: hints of lime, orange, cranberry and raspberry.

Ethiopian
Responsibly and sustainably sourced beans from family-owned farms in the southern nations of Ethiopia. The growing altitude of 2,700 meters plus soil rich with minerals delivers full bodied flavor. This coffee is fair trade and organic certified. Fully washed and dried on raised beds.

Tasting notes: Complex blueberry.

Guatemalan
Responsibly and sustainably sourced beans from family-owned farms in the western Highlands of Guatemala. The growing altitude of 1,650 meters plus soil rich with clay minerals delivers full bodied flavor. This coffee is fair trade and organic certified. Fully washed and dried in the hills of Santa Cruz Barillas, Huehuetenango, Guatemala.

Tasting notes: cocoa, lime zest and dried apple.

About NuZee and Coffee Blenders
NuZee offers gourmet specialty grade coffee in convenient single serve cups using only natural ingredients with clinically supported nutraceuticals. Coffee Blenders also manufactures and sells in the United States its Drip Cup line of single serve, pour-over functional coffees, functional cold brew coffee, and a whole bean coffee line.  For more information on Coffee Blenders, please visit: http://www.coffeeblenders.com.

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