The prize was awarded by an independent international jury of nine experts who chose the best among the winners of the 9 single-origins that make up the recipe of the unique illy blend: Brazil, Costa Rica, El Salvador, Ethiopia, Guatemala, Honduras, India, Nicaragua and Rwanda.

The SMS Cluster ECOM of Nicaragua won the Coffee Lovers’ Choice award, voted for by consumers around the world who in the weeks leading up to the event blindly tasted the same samples in illy coffees.

“For the second year in a row, a Brazilian company that adopts regenerative practices has given us the best coffee in the world. In the Fazenda Serra do Boné, the health of the soil, biodiversity, and water sources are preserved thanks to the use of organic fertilizers, biological control and the reuse of processing by-products,” said Andrea Illy, chairman of illycaffè. “We are once again noticing important signs that confirm how regenerative agriculture is the right path towards a more resilient production capable of guaranteeing productivity and superior quality, of which coffee is the forerunner with the highest growth rates.”

The panel of judges who selected the Best of the Best included Massimo Bottura, chef patron of Osteria Francescana and founder of Food for Soul; Viki Geunes, chef-owner of three-Michelin-starred Zilte in Antwerp; Felipe Rodriguez, head chef at São Paulo’s Rosewood Complex; Vanúsia Nogueira, executive director of the International Coffee Organization (ICO); Q Grader professional tasters Felipe Isaza and Dessalegn Oljirra Gemeda; journalists Vanessa Zocchetti (Madame Figaro), Sebastian Späth (Falstaff), and Josh Condon (Robb Report).

The jury described Fazenda Serra do Boné’s award-winning coffee as creamy, sweet, and full-bodied, with an elegant balance of fresh fruit aromas, caramel undertones, subtle hints of brown sugar, and a persistent chocolate finish with floral notes of jasmine – a beautifully complex coffee that perfectly embodies its Brazilian origin.

This year’s event attracted a diverse group of public figures, including Francis Ford Coppola, Marina Abramović, Pat Cleveland, Alex Riviere, Chiara Maci, Candela Pelizza, Tamu McPherson, Sveva Alviti, Christoph Leitner, Simon e Marina Ksandr, Nick Lowry, Maddy Devita, Justine Martilotti, and Brittany Leigh Ball. The celebration of coffee excellence took place at a gala dinner at Peak in Hudson Yards, hosted by Spanish TV journalist Olivia Frejus Lloyd.

Beyond awards, the Ernesto Illy International Coffee Award fosters global discussions on coffee sustainability. The day began at the United Nations headquarters in New York where representatives from across the coffee supply chain gathered for a roundtable discussion titled “Global Coffee Alliance: Mobilizing a Public-Private Fund to Fight Climate Change.” The panel, moderated by Clare Reichenbach, CEO of the James Beard Foundation, featured chairman Andrea Illy, Italian Ambassador to the UN, Maurizio Massari; executive director of the ICO, Vanúsia Nogueira; chef and UNEP Goodwill Ambassador, Massimo Bottura; UNIDO project manager, Andrea De Marco; senior director of sustainable coffee at Conservation International, Raina Lang; and UNEP director for the New York office, Jamil Ahmad; who explored initiatives to advance sustainable coffee production in the face of climate challenges.

The panel emphasised the urgent need to transition coffee cultivation to a regenerative model to enhance resilience, improve farmer livelihoods, and reduce environmental impact. A major focus was on establishing a USD $10 billion public-private fund over the next decade, which will target smallholder coffee farmers in tropical regions heavily impacted by climate change.

“Since Expo 2015, we have worked tirelessly to build a framework to protect coffee for generations to come,” said Andrea Illy. “Regenerative agriculture has shown it can produce high yields and quality while restoring natural resources. We must act quickly to scale these solutions globally through an international fund. It is essential we implement regenerative solutions now, as we see they work and deliver positive outcomes.”

Throughout the discussion, panelists underscored the importance of uniting stakeholders from governments, international organisations, and the private sector to bring impactful, lasting change to coffee-growing communities. Reichenbach highlighted that consumer awareness and participation are key drivers in the industry’s sustainability journey.

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Producers from nine countries – Brazil, Costa Rica, El Salvador, Ethiopia, Guatemala, Honduras, India, Nicaragua, and Rwanda – have earned spots in the final, with three producers representing each country. The international jury will gather in New York on 12 November to taste and evaluate the coffees, which were selected by illycaffè’s quality laboratories based on rigorous quality and sustainability criteria throughout the 2023/2024 harvest.

The Ernesto Illy International Coffee Award 2024 jury includes Massimo Bottura, chef patron of Osteria Francescana and Casa Maria Luigia and founder of Food for Soul, a non-profit organization combatting food waste and social isolation. In recognition of his humanitarian and environmental efforts, Bottura was appointed goodwill ambassador for the United Nations Environment Programme in 2020 and most recently as SDG Advocate. In 2020 Osteria Francescana was awarded the prestigious Michelin Green Star for sustainability; Viki Geunes, chef and owner of restaurant Zilte in Antwerp, holder of three Michelin stars, known for his creative and visually stunning dishes; Felipe Rodrigues, head chef of the Rosewood Complex in São Paulo and one of South America’s leading chefs, with experience working under top European and Peruvian chefs.

Three professional tasters, Vanúsia Nogueira, executive director of the International Coffee Organization (ICO) and daughter of coffee producer, with extensive experience in quality coffee markets; Felipe Isaza, Arabica Q Grader and member of the Board of Directors of the Coffee Quality Institute, who has served as an international juror at numerous tastings; Dessalegn Oljirra Gemeda, Ethiopian coffee consultant and Q Grader, with a background working for the Ethiopian Coffee & Tea Authority, Ethiopian Coffee Exchange, and Oxfam.

And three expert journalists: Vanessa Zocchetti, editor-in-chief of the lifestyle section of Madame Figaro, who writes on gastronomy and design, Sebastian Späth, editor-in-chief of Germany´s leading food and lifestyle magazine Falstaff, with a great expertise in art, cuisine, fashion, and design, and Josh Condon, editor-in-chief of Robb Report, a leading luxury magazine.

This multidisciplinary jury combines culinary, technical and journalistic expertise to assess the complex nuances of the world’s finest coffees and choose the ‘Best of the Best.’

In addition, consumers will have the chance to participate by tasting the 9 finalist coffees and voting for their favourite in a series of blind tastings held at illy flagship stores worldwide. The coffee with the most votes will receive the ‘Coffee Lovers’ Choice’ award.

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Throughout the year, illycaffè’s quality laboratories analysed samples from the 2023/2024 harvest, selecting the best batches and producers based on both qualitative and sustainability criteria.

The finalists for this edition come from Brazil, Costa Rica, El Salvador, Ethiopia, Guatemala, Honduras, India, Nicaragua, and Rwanda.

“Sustainable quality is the result of a process that begins in the coffee plantations and requires constant innovation, research, and training. It means producing high-quality coffee with respect for the environment, biodiversity, human rights, and social well-being. The Ernesto Illy International Coffee Award has become an annual appointment with our best producers worldwide, with whom we have worked hand in hand for decades to ensure a prosperous future for people and the planet,” commented Andrea Illy, chairman of illycaffè.

The 27 finalists for the Ernesto Illy International Award 2024, listed alphabetically by country, are:

Brazil:

• Fazenda São João – Décio Bruxel e Outros
• Fazenda Serra do Boné – Matheus Lopes Sanglard
• Fazenda Vila Oscarlina – Flávio da Costa Figueredo

Costa Rica

• Coopelibertad R.L.
• CoopeSabalito R.L.
• Finca San Carlos de Marespi S.A.

El Salvador

• Finca Agua Caliente – J.J. Borja Nathan S.A.
• Finca Bolívar – Matorral de S.A. de C.V.
• Finca San Rafael – Comercial Larin S.A. DE C.V.

Ethiopia

• Darimo Washing Station Plc – Asma International Business Pvt Ltd
• Gera Tracon Washing Station Plc – Tracon Trading P.L.C.
• Jemila Amdela Washing Station Plc – Legesse Sherefa Pvt Ltd Co.

Guatemala

• Finca Danilandia – Luis Arimany Monzón
• Finca Santa Leonarda – Plantaciones Agropecuarias S.A.
• Pequeños Productores Santa Cruz Naranjo

Honduras

• Finca Diego Paz – Diego Paz Paz
• Finca Don Miguel – Miguel Angel Pérez Guevara
• Finca El Carmen – Jorge Aníbal Peña Maldonado

India

• Coovercolly Estate – Tata Consumer Products Ltd.
• Kajjehally Estate – S. Vasudevan
• Margolly Estate – Tata Consumer Products Ltd.

Nicaragua

• Finca Santa Ana – Aida Lila Zeledón Palacios
• Grupo productores – Olam Nicaragua
• SMS Cluster ECOM Nicaragua

Rwanda

• Karenge Coffee Washing Station
• Kibirizi Coffee Washing Station
• Rwinyoni Coffee Washing Station

The ranking of each of the nine finalist countries will be announced on 12 November at the United Nations in New York during an event where coffee producers will learn who has won the Ernesto Illy International Coffee Award 2024.

The previous edition of the Ernesto Illy International Coffee Award was won for the first time by Brazil, with the São Mateus Agropecuaria farm. This achievement is particularly significant as the coffee was produced using regenerative agricultural practices, which benefit the environment and health while producing exceptionally high-quality coffee.

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Over the course of the six auctions, 21,661 bids were placed from buyers for the 192 winning lots. When the three minute clock struck zero at the end of the final auction, over 2.6 million dollars had been raised. Out of the 706 registered bidders 128 were successful placing the highest bid to own a winning lot.

Costa Rica garnered the highest gross auction amount of USD $655,786, almost $271,000 more than in 2023, although every country improved their totals from 2023. Honduras took home the top price of $136.50lb for its first place coffee. Together the 192 total lots averaged $21.54lb. 2024 was the first year that coffees were divided by processing technique. Natural, washed and experimentally processed coffees were all represented in the winning lots having been separated during the competition.

The full programme began in early Spring in Nicaragua with the call for farmer entries and it ended on Tuesday 13th July with Mexico holding its final very busy auction. Each country held a full 3-week competition to determine which coffees would score high enough to be awarded a CoE and sold online to the highest bidder. Coffees receiving a CoE award undergo intense scrutiny from both a national jury and an international jury during the competition process. The lots being auctioned scored between the minimum required score of 87 to a high of 93.62.  A total of 172 professional cuppers from 24 countries scored the winners through the multiple phases of the competition process. A total of 39 lots scored over 90 points, 31 of the winning farms are owned by women and 37 are owned by farmers experiencing their first Cup of Excellence competition.

Sample sets of the winners were sent out to roasters wanting to score the coffees again at their place of business. Almost 500 complete sets of winning lots were sent to companies in North America, the Middle East, Europe and Asia. Each lot was also processed to meticulous standards and vacuum packed before the auctions occurred.

Honduras celebrated its 20th anniversary this year. Guatemala held its first CoE in 2001, Nicaragua in 2002, El Salvador in 2003, Costa Rica in 2007 and Mexico in 2012. Identification of farmers, infrastructure development, technical training and quality improvement are often the result of the Cup of Excellence programme.

For more information contact support@cupofexcellence.org

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The I-CIP averaged 186.36 US cents/lb in March, a 2.4% increase from February 2024. The I-CIP posted a median value of 185.64 US cents/lb, having fluctuated between 181.39 and 193.26 US cents/lb. The March 2024 I-CIP is above the March 2023 I-CIP by 9.6%, with the 12-month rolling average at 168.82 US cents/lb. The I-CIP grew steadily in March 2024, reaching an 18-month high. Remarkably, the Robustas have reached their highest level since October 1994 when they averaged 169.43 US cents/lb.

The Colombian Milds increased by 0.4% whilst the Other Milds remained stable with a 0.0% change, thereby reaching 210.27 and 208.88 US cents/lb, respectively, in March 2024. The Brazilian Naturals presented a decline of 0.5%, reaching an average of 185.77 US cents/lb. However, the Robustas grew by 8.2% to 165.84 US cents/lb, the highest level in almost 30 years. The Intercontinental Exchange’s (ICE) London market was also a strong driver of the growth, having increased by 4.3% to 148.53 US cents/lb, whilst the New York Futures market contracted by 0.4% to 184.59 US cents/lb.

The Colombian Milds–Other Milds differential expanded from 0.75 to 1.39 US cents/lb. The Colombian Milds–Brazilian Naturals differential grew 7.5% to 24.51 US cents/lb, whilst the Colombian Milds–Robustas differential shrank 21.1% from February to March 2024, averaging 44.43 US cents/lb. Meanwhile, the Other Milds–Brazilian Naturals differential grew 4.9% reaching 23.12 US cents/lb. However, the Other Milds–Robustas and the Brazilian Naturals–Robustas differentials both contracted 22.5% and 40.5%, averaging 43.04 and 19.92 US cents/lb, respectively, in March 2024.

Arbitrage, as measured between the London and New York Futures markets, retracted by 16.0% to 36.06 US cents/lb in March 2024.

Intra-day volatility of the I-CIP increased by 0.3 percentage points to 7.1% between February and March 2024. The Colombian Milds’ and Other Milds’ volatility decreased to 7.5% and 7.7%, respectively. Meanwhile, the Brazilian Naturals’ volatility declined by 0.7 percentage points to 8.1% from February to March 2024. The Robustas presented an average volatility of 8.8% for the month of March. The London Futures market’s volatility also decreased by 0.3 percentage points to 9.4%. Lastly, the New York futures market’s volatility moved in the same direction to that of London, reaching 8.6%, a 0.3 percentage point decline.

The London certified stocks expanded by 22.1% to 0.49 million 60-kg bags. Certified stocks of Arabica coffee reached 0.63 million 60-kg bags, an 80.8% increase since February 2024.

Exports by Coffee Groups – Green Beans
Global green bean exports in February 2024 totalled 10.43 million bags, as compared with 9.52 million bags in the same month of the previous year, up 9.5%. These are the largest February exports on record, beating the previous record set in 2019 of 10.34 million bags. The magnitude of the latest increase in exports of green beans, however, is more a reflection of a favourable base effect and a comparative normalisation of supply. From December 2022 to June 2023, the exports of green beans fell consecutively, with the cumulative total decreasing by 8.2% to 66.92 million bags, the lowest level seen for those same seven months since December 2016 to June 2017.

The cumulative total for coffee year 2023/24 to February is 50.82 million bags, as compared with 45.5 million bags over the same period a year ago, up 11.7%. Brazil was the main origin driving the growth, with exports expanding by 59.9% in February 2024 to 3.38 million bags from 2.11 million bags in February 2023, while among the different groups, the Brazilian Naturals were responsible.

Shipments of the Other Milds increased by 4.2% in February 2024 to 1.91 million bags from 1.83 million bags in the same period last year. Peru, the second largest producer and exporter of the Other Milds, continues to be the main driver of the growth of this group of coffee, with the origin’s exports thereof increasing by 178.6% to 0.18 million bags from 0.06 million bags in February 2023, representing an increase of 65.5% for the year to date (2.27 million bags). Peru’s exports of the Other Milds are on track to be the third biggest on record. As a result, the cumulative volume of total exports of the Other Milds also increased by 6.6% in the first five months of coffee year 2023/24 to 7.72 million bags, versus 7.24 million bags over the same period in 2022/23.

Green bean exports of the Brazilian Naturals increased in February 2024, rising by 36.6% to 3.16 million bags from 2.59 million bags in February 2023. For the first five months of coffee year 2023/24, green bean exports of the Brazilian Naturals amounted to 17.73 million bags, up 16.7% from 15.19 million bags over the same period a year ago. The sharp positive growth rate stems from the 38.4% increase in exports of the Brazilian Naturals from Brazil, the biggest producer and exporter of this group of coffee, which rose to 2.77 million bags in February 2024 from 2.0 million bags February 2023.

Exports of the Colombian Milds increased by 14.7% to 1.12 million bags in February 2024 from 0.98 million bags in February 2023. As a result, exports of the Colombian Milds for the first five months of coffee year 2023/24 are up 13.1% at 5.27 million bags, as compared with 4.65 million bags in the first five months of coffee year 2022/23. The double-digit growths, for both the current month and coffee year to date, are a consequence of the 11.9% weather-driven fall in exports in coffee year 2022/23 and subsequent normalization of supply conditions in Colombia, the largest producer and exporter of the Colombian Milds. For the current month and cumulative total to February 2024, the country’s exports of the Colombian Milds are up 15.4% and 13.2%, respectively.

In contrast to the Arabicas, green bean exports of the Robustas were down 3.7% to 4.24 million bags in February 2024 from 4.4 million bags in February 2023. Despite this, the cumulative total for the first five months of coffee year 2023/24 is up 9.2%, at 20.11 million bags, as compared with 18.41 million bags in the first five months of coffee year 2022/23. The main driver of February’s Robustas decrease was Vietnam, which shipped 2.54 million bags as compared with 3.17 million bags in February 2023, down 19.9%. Indonesia’s Robusta exports were also down 48.1%, with a net fall of 0.13 million bags.

Exports by Regions – All Forms of Coffee
Exports of all forms of coffee from Asia & Oceania decreased by 17.0% to 3.97 million bags in February 2024. The main source of the double-digit downturn is Vietnam, which saw its exports fall by 19.7% to 2.73 million bags in February 2024 from 3.4 million bags in February 2023. The size of the fall is the result of an unfavourable base effect, with the February 2023 export volume 1.04 million bags larger than the February average of the past six years (2.36 million bags).

On balance, Vietnam’s February 2024 export volume should be deemed at a healthy level, benefitting from high and rising local prices (the local green bean price increased to an average 80,000 VND/kg on 15 February 2024, from 61,000 VND/kg in the middle of November 2023) and triggering the release of stocks as farmers took advantage. Moreover, the Tet (lunar new year, which fell on 10 February 2024) would have brought additional supply to the market as farmers sought extra income for the most important social calendar date for the country and its people.

In February 2024, South America’s exports of all forms of coffee increased by 41.7% to 4.93 million bags. The source of the strong positive growth is Brazil, which saw its exports increase by 51.0% in February 2024 to 3.64 million bags – the second highest February exports on record for the origin. The overall recovery of Brazil’s export volume remains a reaction to the 31.8% fall in the February 2023 exports 2.41 million bags, the lowest February exports since 2.23 million bags in 2013. In coffee year 2022/23, Brazil’s exports declined by 7.9% to 36.5 million bags, the lowest level since the 32.69 million bags shipped in coffee year 2017/18. To date, Brazil’s exports are up 24.6% to 12.84 million bags.

Exports of all forms of coffee from Africa increased by 14.6% to 0.98 million bags in February 2024 from 0.86 million bags in February 2023. However, the cumulative total of 4.99 million bags for the first five months of coffee year 2023/24 remains down 2.5% as compared with the 5.1 million bags shipped in coffee year 2022/23. Ethiopia was the driving force behind the region’s increased exports in February 2024, with its own exports having increased by 103.9% to 0.2 million bags from 0.1 million bags in February 2023. The size of the rebound is due to a favourable base effect and a comparative normalization of market circumstances.

Contract disputes arising from a mismatch between local purchasing prices and global market prices had previously affected the volume of exports, leading February 2023’s shipment to be the lowest since 2010.

In February 2024, exports of all forms of coffee from Mexico & Central America were down 2.7% to 1.45 million bags, as compared with 1.49 million in February 2023. As a result, the cumulative total exports are down 3.9% from October 2023 to February 2024 at 3.94 million bags, as compared with 4.1 million bags for the same period a year ago. Costa Rica, El Salvador and Guatemala were the main origins behind the region’s negative growth, with exports down 24.5%, 40.3% and 5.7%, respectively, and a combined net loss of 58,812 bags. Partly counterbalancing these origins were Honduras and Mexico, with a combined net export gain of 24,756 bags in February, up 2.0% and 6.5%, respectively.

Exports of Coffee by Forms
Total exports of soluble coffee decreased by 18.2% in February 2024 to 0.85 million bags from 1.04 million bags in February 2023. In the first five months of coffee year 2023/24, a total of 5.05 million bags of soluble coffee were exported, representing an increase of 5.0% from the 4.81 million bags exported in the same period during the previous coffee year.

Soluble coffee’s share in the total exports of all forms of coffee for the year to date was 9.0% in February 2024, down from 9.5% in the same period a year ago. Brazil is the largest exporter of soluble coffee in February 2024, having shipped 0.26 million bags.

Exports of roasted beans were up 14.1% in February 2024 to 56,425 bags, as compared with 49,439 bags in February 2023. The cumulative total for coffee year 2023/24 to February 2024 was 0.32 million bags, as compared with 0.3 million bags in same period a year ago.

For the full report, visit: icocoffee.org.

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The coffee industry is well known for its strong collaborative community, where individuals gather to discuss opportunities and challenges, share successes, and brainstorm solutions. The concept of collaborative roasting takes this a step further, with roasters joining together to share both space and equipment. The creation of these spaces has helped to make coffee more accessible, while also becoming incubators for advancements in the industry, providing a space to explore new technology and equipment as the costs are shared amongst multiple members.

The Canadian Roasting Society (Montréal, Canada) has adopted the collaborative roasting model to propel the coffee industry forward in its local region. Established in 2018, partners Andrew Kyres and Scott Rao wanted to advance the coffee industry in their local community, including providing space and equipment. Today, they have created a modern roasting facility with a 5,000 square foot warehouse and the ability to store 75,000 pounds of coffee.

The space is open for individuals or companies to use their resources, including a custom-built Probat roasting machine, weighing, filling and sealing machines, reverse osmosis filtration systems, storage space for green coffee, coffee tasting and brew laboratory and access to qualified personnel and on-site data analysis. There is a pre-established fee, avoiding the high start-up costs that individuals in the industry.

Breaking down barriers

The standard process for collaborative roasting involves a founder making a significant capital investment and then sharing their resources with others in the coffee community for a pre-set fee.
Leonardo Azeredo, founder of Co-Roasting, based in France, was intrigued by the concept of this model but pondered if it could be done differently; specifically, if instead of renting a space and the equipment for roasters to use, there was equipment in his community that was currently not being maximised. In 2018, while Azeredo was completing his executive MBA, he began researching if this type of model would be possible. His research, which involved interviewing over 100 roasters in France, revealed that more than 80 percent said that they used their equipment only two days a week.

The collaborative roasting model proposed by Co-Roasting was centered around maximising the existing resources by developing a digital platform that could pair individuals seeking a roaster with owners of roasters that were not used to their total capacity. “If they want to be a host, it’s not only a matter of having equipment that is not being used to its full capacity, but also about having a willingness to share knowledge to help develop the competence of someone looking to get into the field,” said Azeredo. Specifically, he is seeking members who are aligned with the Co-Roasting community’s core values of integrity, respect, sharing, and empathy and are willing to share their equipment and become part of an entrepreneurship incubator.

Checking coffee beans during roasting at Cafés Muda. Images credit: Co-Roasting

“I strongly believe that people need to have accountability for their decisions, and if someone is looking to quickly start their business, collaborative roasting is a good way to start,” said Azeredo. “We can do things differently and continue to innovate with a collective intelligence; our vision is to create a full value chain of collaboration.”

This includes extending the collaborative model beyond the individuals who use the equipment and the hosts of the equipment to other key players in the industry, including equipment suppliers, software manufacturers, and producers. “Our vision is to create this kind of ecosystem, to help accelerate the process of being able to provide and give access to good coffee to the consumer.” Currently, Co-Roasting has close to 50 members, including users, hosts, producers, and equipment manufacturers, in France, Belgium and Brazil, and it plans to expand into other regions.

Building bridges

Could producer ownership be a new form of collaboration? On 22 February 2024, Paso Paso opened its doors, presenting the coffee community with a new version of collaboration involving producer investment. Bram De Hoog, the visionary of this concept, actively sought out producers from across the globe to develop a company centered around producers coming together to co-own a roastery and, in turn, empower producers to represent themselves in the European market.

“Each business has its complications, challenges, and the investments that it needs to succeed, but I could see some of our clients from the importer side opening up a coffee shop and expanding their roasting business from purchasing ten bags to 100 bags over the course of only a few years,” said De Hoog. “I just didn’t see the same potential for growth on the coffee producer side.” All participants, which currently includes five producers and De Hoog, are registered shareholders of the company based in Germany and are actively involved in making decisions and profit-sharing.

“I wanted to be very egalitarian and very straightforward – basically, if you invest money in the roastery, you will get shares in it, there’s no further complication to it,” said De Hoog. The roastery, which is based in Hannover, Germany, is currently being operated by De Hoog, while the producers, who reside in their respective countries, are involved in all company decisions, which includes committing to monthly meetings to discuss strategy and financing.

The producers, who are currently located in Costa Rica, El Salvador, Ethiopia and Nicaragua, each have unique limitations that they face within the coffee industry but jointly shared that they were seeking a solution that would actively make a difference in their lives. Part of the motivation for launching Paso Paso was to prove to the industry that the existing model can be changed; specifically, the industry should actively seek ways to increase producer involvement across the entire coffee chain.

De Hoog, who has extensive experience as a green coffee buyer, had previously established positive relationships with each producer involved in the project. He hand-picked the participating producers, who stood out for their dedication, passion, and open-mindedness to challenge the status quo.

“I was inspired by Bram because it really is a unique business model. It is very different from what we see out there and the normal way of selling coffee. We’re feeling like pioneers,” said Diego Baraona, coffee producer at Los Pirineos, El Salvador. “It’s kind of like a redistribution of power, giving a bit more to the producers and essentially starting to change the industry.”

The producers shared that one of the unexpected benefits of creating the company has been gaining insights from the different perspectives of each investor and then using these insights to make decisions about the company. “We are combining our knowledge in our specific fields and putting a team together that is going to make sure that this project will [move] forward,” said Daniela Vega, producer of Roble Negro, Costa Rica. “The business model is so different itself, [which makes it] attractive, [so] you want to participate and give your ideas to help the company grow because it’s your company as well.” Vega explained that she has felt a shift in the coffee industry as a whole as more individuals recognise the value producers provide to the industry and the necessity for increased economic acknowledgement.

Sorting coffee at Bette Buna farm in Ethiopia. Image credit: Hester Westerveld

The journey from concept to company launch has been a complex path. However, the producers have learned a lot about the industry and the logistics that come into play when developing a company with multiple owners from across the globe. “We’re showing already that you can make the impossible possible, and my only hope for the future is that this team will become even tighter,” said Hester Syoum Westerveld, coffee producer at Bette Buna in Ethiopia. “People talk about doing things differently and taking action, but we are actually just doing it and showing that it is possible. It has not been an easy process to start.”

Signing the paperwork, for example, required using embassies and notaries in respective countries or flying to Germany to complete all the documentation. De Hoog shared that he went to 13 separate banks before finding one that would agree to sign on with the company. However, all members persevered in transforming the company from concept to reality. They are now looking forward to a future where there are opportunities for producers to play a more active role in the industry.

“We’re able to break that supply chain and set it up differently. Our goal is to create stability for our producers and develop an integrated loop between what we are producing, what we are roasting, and what we are selling,” said De Hoog. [We] hope to grow the company so that, say, in five years from now, the roastery is buying all of the coffee from a producer and expanding the opportunity to others.”

The continued adoption of the collaborative roasting model will challenge the industry to break down traditional boundaries and continually reinvent how the market can share a good cup of coffee. Coffee has always been a collaborative industry, with players coming together to develop solutions that will help ensure that the industry is sustainable. The model of collaborative roasting is another piece of the puzzle providing current and future players with tools and resources to propel the industry forward.

• Anne-Marie Hardie is a freelance writer, professor and speaker based in Barrie, Ontario. She may be reached at: annemariehardie1@gmail.com.

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The award, named after the visionary leader of illycaffè and the son of the company’s founder, celebrates the work that the Trieste, Italy-based company has been doing every day for the last 30 years, side-by-side with coffee farmers, to offer the best possible sustainable coffee. The award was presented to the winner by illycaffè chairman Andrea Illy during an event held at the New York Public Library in New York.

EIICA celebrates the finest Arabica coffees sourced from all over the world. This event aims to recognize growers for the quality coffee they tirelessly work to produce. The award was assigned by an independent panel of nine experts who examined the best batches from the 2022-2023 harvest through a blind tasting of nine coffees from the nine finalist countries: Brazil, Costa Rica, El Salvador, Ethiopia, Guatemala, Honduras, India, Nicaragua, and Rwanda. Prior to being evaluated by the panel, each batch of coffee was analysed by illycaffè’s quality control labs and rated in terms of richness and aromatic complexity, the elegance and balance of its flavour and intensity of its aroma.

Guatemala’s Finca Danilandia di Luis Arimany Mondonico won the Coffee Lovers’ Choice Award, assigned by a panel of consumers who, in the weeks prior to the event, carried out blind taste tests of the coffee samples in illy cafés in Trieste, Milan, Paris, London, Sao Paolo and New York and ranked their preferences.

“The absolute victory of the Brazilian coffee coming from regenerative agriculture – chosen blindly among the nine best coffees in the world – fills me with joy. Indeed, the history of the Ernesto Illy Award began in Brazil in 1991 and this confirms that the rewards received, by illycaffè for having transformed Brazil from a leader in quantity to a leader in quality are well-deserved,” said Andrea Illy. “After more than 25 years of neverending and tireless work by our team of agronomists and the University of Coffee, the leap has finally happened thanks to regenerative agriculture, which we decided to develop in 2018 for the benefits it brings to the environment and everyone’s health.”

The panel that voted for the Best of the Best award included Guatemala’s professional taster Silvia Escobar; the President of Federação dos Cafeicultores do Cerrado, Brasilian Glaucio De Castro; the director of the CoffeeLab quality laboratory, Indian Sunalini Narayan Menon; chef Ricard Camarena, who has been awarded two Michelin stars and a green star for his dedication to sustainability at his Ricard Camarena Restaurant in Valencia; American chefs Carrie and Rupert Blease, who manage the Michelin-starred Lord Stanley restaurant in San Francisco; Andrea Aprea, a Michelin-starred chef with a restaurant bearing his name in Milan; French writer and journalist Adelaide de Clermont-Tonnere, editor-in-chief of Point de Vue magazine; Inga Griese, founder and editor-in-chief of ICON, the style supplement of the German newspaper Welt Am Sonntag; Angelina Villa Clarke, a journalist contributing to prestigious English-language publications including Forbes.

Commenting on the winning coffee, the jury said, “This year’s Ernesto Illy International Coffee Award winner is a rounded, wholesome, and fully bodied cup, with rich yet mellow flavors of a balance of chocolate, caramel, brown sugar, and toasted almonds on a bed of refined brightness, with a lingering finish of mild, gentle, yet harmonious sweetness. It truly represents the finest taste characteristics of its origin.”

Martha Stewart, Matilda De Angelis, Pat Cleveland, Coco Rocha, Candela Pelizza, Tamu Mc Pherson, Carlo Sestini, Simon and Marina Ksandr, Nick Lowry, Tesa Pesic are some of the celebrities who attended the gala event at the New York Public Library, hosted by chef and TV star Marcus Samuelsson, to celebrate the best coffee producers who work behind the unique illy blend.

The Ernesto Illy International Coffee Award is also an unmissable networking opportunity for all those involved in the coffee industry, from producers to exporters, from traders to institutional representatives. In the morning they all met at the United Nations Headquarters to attend a panel discussion on protecting the future of coffee. Alongside illycaffè chairman Andrea Illy, speakers included Vanusia Nogueira, executive director, International Coffee Organization; Jeffrey Sachs, professor of economy at Columbia University and co-chair at the Regenerative Society Foundation; Oscar Schaps, president of the Latin American division of Stone X Financial Inc; and Glaucio de Castro, president of the Federação dos Cafeicultores do Cerrado Mineiro. (For a full recap of the event at the UN, see the Editor’s Blog: “The time is now” to invest in regenerative agriculture (teaandcoffee.net).

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Over the last six months, coffee prices have recorded a steady increase in monthly averages despite a few daily slumps. Relatively firm prices seem to encourage sales as world coffee exports grew in March, as did shipments in the first half of coffee year 2020-21. However, cumulative exports from April 2020 to March 2021 are provisionally estimated to decrease versus April 2019 to March 2020. According to the ICO, world consumption for coffee year 2020-21 is projected to increase 1.3% in coffee year 2019-20 but remain 2% below total production in coffee year 2020-21.

Coffee prices continued their upward trend as the monthly average of the ICO composite indicator rose to 122.03 US cents/lb in April, 1.4% higher than in March 2021 and 12% higher than in April 2020. This level also represents the sixth consecutive month of increase and the highest monthly average in over three and a half years. In April, the daily composite indicator fluctuated between 114.22 and 130.87 US cents/lb. The linear trend has gotten steeper every consecutive month since the start of the coffee year in October 2020. Market fundamentals are one of the main drivers of the current price trends as the imbalance between consumption and total production is getting smaller. Arabica supplies are expected to tighten in the near future, with Brazil’s production projected to decline by more than 30% in its 2021-22 off-year crop. Moreover, various restrictions due to the ongoing pandemic affecting particularly the movement of population are expected to be gradually eased soon.

Average prices for all group indicators increased in April. Prices for Colombian Milds and Brazilian Naturals confirmed their steady upwards trends since October 2020. Colombia Milds rose by 2.4% to 181.70 US cents/lb and the average price for the Brazilian naturals increased by 1.7% to 124.18 US cents/lb. After slipping in November 2020, the average price for Other Milds regained its upward trend and an increase of 1% was observed in April 2021 to 168.65 US cents/lb against 167.05 US cents/lb in March 2021. The differential between Colombian Milds and Other Milds increased by 25% to 13.05 US cents/lb and the differential between Other Milds and Brazilian Naturals decreased by 0.9%.

As for the Robusta group, mixed price movements have been observed since October 2020. However, an increase of 0.8% to 74.47 US cents/lb was recorded in April 2021 in comparison with 73.86 US cents/lb in March 2021. Nevertheless, this monthly average price for Robusta is 16% higher than the level of 63.97 US cents/lb recorded in April 2020. The differential between Colombian Milds and Robusta increased by 3.5% to 107.23 US cents/lb. In April, the arbitrage between Arabica and Robusta coffees, as measured on the New York and London futures markets, increased by 4.7% to 71.01 US cents/lb.

Intra-day volatility of the ICO composite indicator price decreased from 7.7% in March 2021 to 7.3% in April. The volatility for all indicators decreased in April, with Robusta experiencing the highest decrease of 1.1%. While the volatility of the London Futures market has decreased by 1.5% to 7% in April, it has remained unchanged in the New York Futures market at 9.3%, the same level recorded in March. In April, certified stocks of Arabica for New York Futures exchange were 2.07 million bags and certified stocks of Robusta coffee for the London Futures Exchange were 2.53 million bags, representing an increase by 5% and 1% respectively. Total production in coffee year 2020-21 is estimated to rise by 0.5% to 169.63 million bags, with Arabica production increasing by 2.6% to 99.42 million bags.

The production of Robusta coffee is expected to decrease by 2.4% to 70.21 million bags. At the regional level, a slight decrease of 0.8% is expected for Africa at 18.54 million bags in coffee year 2020-21 in comparison with 18.68 million bags in the previous coffee year. Production for Asia & Oceania is forecast to fall by 1.1% from 49.48 million bags in 2019-20 to 48.95 million in 2020-21. Production for Mexico & Central America is expected to decrease slightly by 0.1% at 19.54 million bags against 19.56 million bags in coffee year 2019-20. An increase of 1.8% in production is expected from South America at 82.59 million bags, compared with 81.12 million bags in 2019-20.

World coffee consumption is projected to increase by 1.3% to 166.34 million bags in 2020-21 compared to 164.20 million bags for coffee year 2019-20. The negative impact on coffee consumption experienced during coffee year 2019-20 with the outbreak of the covid-19 pandemic is fading as consumption is regaining its normal trend. Consumption in importing countries and domestic consumption in exporting countries is expected to grow by 1.3% and 1.4% respectively. Consumption in Africa is expected to increase by 1.8% at 12.24 million bags. Consumption in Asia & Oceania will increase by 1.4% at 36.50 million bags. In the region of Mexico and Central America, consumption is expected to increase by 0.7% at 5.36 million bags. As a result, the surplus of total production over world consumption is expected to be reduced at 3.28 million bags, compared with 4.6 million bags in the previous coffee year.

Global exports in March 2021 totalled 11.94 million bags, compared with 11.66 million bags in March 2020. Exports in the first half of coffee year 2020-21 reached 65.4 million bags, representing an increase of 3.5% compared to 63.2 million bags during the same period in coffee year 2019-20. Cumulative exports of Colombian Milds over the first half of coffee year 2020-21 increased by 2.6% to 7.75 million bags, while exports of Other Milds decreased by 8.3% to 10.4 million bags from 11.35 million bags in 2019-20. Total exports of Brazilian Naturals increased by 19.2% to 23.66 million bags, compared to 19.84 million bags recorded over the first six months of coffee year 2019-20. Shipments of Robusta over half of coffee year 2020-21 fell by 3.5% to 23.59 million bags.

The increase in exports was primarily driven by shipments of green coffee, which rose 4.3% to 59.32 million bags in the first half of the coffee year compared to the same period in the previous year. Exports of roasted coffee fell by an estimated 4% to 336,172 bags, while those of soluble coffee fell by 3.4% to 5.72 million bags. In regional terms, exports of all forms of coffee from Africa in the first half of coffee year 2020-21 decreased by 8.9% to 5.96 million bags, as shipments from Ethiopia, Côte d’Ivoire and Kenya declined by 28.5%, 49% and 9.5% respectively. Uganda, the largest regional exporter, has recorded an increase of 11.5% to 2.8 million bags. It should be noted that in March 2021, exports of Uganda totalled 572,839 bags, its highest volume of exports in a single month, generating over USD 53.55 million in export value.

Asia & Oceania’s coffee exports declined by 6.3% to 19.3 million bags in October 2020 to March 2021. Vietnam’s exports during this period declined by 13.2% to 12.58 million bags, while Indonesia’s shipments increased by 20.2% to 3.7 million bags. Exports from India, the region’s third largest producer, recorded a small decrease of 0.5% to 2.55 million bags compared to 2.56 million bags in 2019-20.

Compared to the first six months of coffee year 2019-20, exports from Mexico & Central America fell by 12.2% to 6.06 million bags as parts of the region have not yet recovered from the severe impact of hurricanes Iota and Eta. Notably, shipments from Honduras, the region’s largest producer, decreased by 20.9% to 2.19 million bags while those from Nicaragua fell by 12.7% to 1.05 million bags. Guatemala’s exports declined by 15.9% to 1.05 million bags. Total exports of Costa Rica and El Salvador also declined by 7.2% and 28.2%, respectively. Indications of a recovery have nevertheless been observed in recent months, particularly in Honduras which exported 807,506 bags of coffee in March 2021, an increase of 4.5% compared to March 2020.

From October 2020 to March 2021, South America’s exports increased by 17% to 33.74 million bags. During this period, exports of all forms of coffee from Brazil rose by 23.3% to 24.66 million bags. Brazil is nearing the end of its 2020-21 crop year, which was an on-year for its Arabica production. Exports from Colombia increased by 3.5% to 7.09 million bags. Ecuador recorded a relatively stable level of its exports at 1.75 million bags.

For the full ICO April green coffee report, visit: www.ico.org.

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In its first year Ethiopia alone exceeded all expectations with a $28.44 average price and over $1.5 million in gross revenue. Nicaragua, Guatemala, El Salvador and Costa Rica each topped their previous average price by several dollars per pound, confirming that even in a global pandemic rare quality is extremely valuable.

The 50 semi-finalists know as National Winners sold at an alternative auction from the Cup of Excellence winners also received prices well above expectations. The average price per pound for these lots has increased 17.75% over last year, with the top prices reportedly averaging above $10 per pound.

Even as Covid-19 spread around the globe and the competitions became increasingly uncertain, over 2,100 farmers sent in their coffees to be judged during the five competitions. Cup of Excellence staff developed rigorous rules to ensure safe cupping and scoring for the national jury. The international jury stage of the competition was completely reorganised due to global travel restrictions and instead coffee samples were sent to several international companies and cuppers known for their experience. Using the competition’s strict protocols, the Global Coffee Centers (GCC) awarded coffees scoring at least 87 points with a Cup of Excellence and the awards ceremony went virtual in each country.

Global support for Cup of Excellence and membership in The Alliance For Coffee Excellence has been growing steadily over the last six months and has been extremely strong during the present crisis. The Cup of Excellence supported TAZA knowledge series that started during Covid-19 and continues to gain popularity with educational pieces on anaerobic coffee, genetic discovery and interviews with coffee producers. The innovative web programme will expand as the year progresses.

“Contrary to what many thought would be a tough year for our competition entries from coffee producers and lackluster auction results, Cup of Excellence has absorbed much of the uncertainty with exceptional results and higher than average producer involvement. ACE continues to reinvent our programming in education and training, our Private Collection Auction and our beloved Cup of Excellence programme,” said ACE executive director, Darrin Daniel.

The next four months for the Cup of Excellence programme will also see competitions in Colombia, Peru and Brazil. The Global Coffee Centers (GCC) will remain in place as an option for these future COE competitions and for the ACE sponsored regional and estate “Private Collection” auctions.

For more information about upcoming auctions and to get involved, visit: allianceforcoffeeexcellence.org.

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